Thursday, October 31, 2013

Sahara Desert for 3 days!!!

Writing about this trip once it's over and I've returned to civilization is difficult to do. Perhaps some of you can take a look at my photos, come up with some adjectives, send them to me and I can pick the ones that best sum up how I feel. It was one of the coolest things I've ever done, but that seems childish to say. Just check it out and enjoy the journey!

DAY 1 IN THE SAHARA
One thing you will notice : the sand changes color every second, depending on the angle and strength of the sun. We arrived in the desert as it was overcast and in the midst of a windstorm. 

Our driver, Fatah, wearing nomad clothing (the Blue Men of the desert). He's not originally from the Sahara but man, did this guy know his way around!  Our lives were 100% in his hands, but he picked his path around the thousand tracks laid out haphazardly in the Sahara sand. He blasted some great music over the next few days, too.  We had fun with him.


Sometimes there are tracks like this, sometimes there are none, sometimes there are dozens criss-crossing one another. It was impressive how people could get around and knew exactly where they were at all times.

Our Sahara tent room, decorated in glammed-up Berber style. It was paradise.

Our bath buckets. You sit on the stool or stand up and pour water all over yourself with the little bowl. Obviously, baths or showers are unsustainable in the Sahara.  This worked as well as you could hope. I loved it.

The brush-your-teeth and wash-your-hands station. Super cool.

The toilet facilities smelled great and were infinitely better than many of my options in Greece. Take note, Grecian designers : the Sahara's got one up on ya....



The fun tent, where unlimited drinks and board games awaited us galore. There were also sandsurfing boards but alas, I never took advantage of them....


It doesn't show from the pictures, but it was really windy. In about 15 minutes, I understood the reason for the sand turbans that the nomads wear, despite the oppressive heat.  Due to the high winds, they couldn't set up our supper tables in the courtyard as usual, so this was our supper tent on the first night. It was lit only by candlelight and it was VERY pleasant.

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DAY 2 
We had an opulent breakfast of eggs, crepes, bread, date and orange jams, yogurt, muesli and coffee to begin the day!  I felt like a Queen!  It was still really windy, so we opted out of a dromedary ride and decided to drive around the desert with Fatah to check things out.  So much fun!

A group of dromedaries, none of which are wild. All dromedaries in the Sahara are tagged and belong to someone, but they do seem to roam around as they wish.

A hotel set up in the middle of the desert for those brave adventurers who come out here with their truck and their GPS... FYI, Fatah's cell phone was going off every few minutes over the 2 days we spent with him. When I asked him if he ever got lost in the desert, he said, ''Yes, but it's not a problem, cuz I got my mobile!''  You can't get reception between Banff and Lake Louise, but you can chat to your heart's content in the Sahara. 



A group of nomads at one of the sparsely-situated wells in the desert.


A local school where we stopped in to say hello. The teachers spoke Arab, French and English.

The local village where the children who attend this school live.

Since it was still morning, there was only a grade 1 class (pictured) and a kindergarten class. The older kids come to school in the afternoon, and French is taught as of grade 2. Not sure if English is taught at all, I forgot to ask.... When I entered the school, the little boy was sitting between the two girls in the front row (you can't see the girl in the pink, because she is picking up her pencil). The male teacher asked the little boy to sit away from the girls for my photo. I guess he wasn't supposed to be sitting with girls ???

The flat sands of former Iriqui Lake, which was a salt-water lake up until 40 years ago when the King dammed it.

Fatah let us take a turn at the wheel on the flat sands.... I did it, just to say I did it.

Getting a fire going for our awesome chicken kabobs : a desert picnic!




Time for our dromedary ride!

It was fun, but it was seriously one of the most uncomfortable things I've ever parked my backside on.  The flies were bad and were driving the dromedaries nuts, but we had a good time. We were supposed to catch a sunset while riding, but it was overcast, so it didn't happen.

As close to seeing the setting sun as we got...

Our camel driver, Saïd

When we returned to the camp and had washed up (dromedaries stink!!!), we stepped outside our tent to find this beautiful sight.

No wonder they had apologized to us about having to eat our supper in the tent last night ; we didn't know what we were missing!

We had some Berber musicians playing for us as well, which only added to the ambiance.

Once they got going, they played some upbeat tunes and danced with us in front of the fire; kinda like a little desert rave party...


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DAY 3
We have to leave, mwah!!!!!  Breakfast is served outside this morning, nice!


More dromedaries....
We have to leave around 9:00am, so we don't get to hang out very long after breakfast. What an amazing two days!  Definately recommended to anyone who wants to check out the Sahara... 

For the next 5 days or so, Chris and I are planning on simply driving around in the Atlas Mountains, seeing some countryside, small villages, gorges and canyons.... Will keep you posted. Stay safe, everyone.

Marrakesh 2

There are quite a few sights to see in Marrakesh. Obviously, the market stalls are a good way to get a feel for Moroccan big-city life. But if you wanna get away from that, here are a few landmark areas to visit in Marrakesh :

BADI  PALACE
A Sultan called Ahmed el-Mansour built himself a grand place just off Djeemaa El-Fna in 1578 and these are the resulting ruins. He made his wealth through the sugar and human slave trade. The building of this palace was financed by a ransom from Portugal (nothing like good ol' blackmail). The original complex contained 360 rooms, including a small underground jail where the Sultan kept his prisoners. Just 75 years later, the palace was looted by another Sultan; it took that guy 10 years to remove all the sumptuous decorations (he wanted them for his own palace). El-Badi means ''The Incomparable'', but little remains of its opulent grandeur now.

Behind the tree is the entrance to the Sultan's personal mosque, which I couldn't enter as a woman, especially a non-Muslim one. The area I'm standing on to take the photo houses the underground dungeons. How symbolic to have filthy dungeons built next to your house of God.

The central courtyard, which is still used for official ceremonies and diplomatic visits. 


One of four sunken gardens



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SAADIAN TOMBS
These gorgeous rooms contain the remains of Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour (the same guy who built the above palace) and about 60 members of his Saadian Dynasty.  He spared no expense for the 66 tombs, with solid gold gilding the plastered honeycombs and Italian marble everywhere.

When another Sultan -- the same one who looted the Badi Palace -- discovered this burial ground, superstition kept him from looting it, so he sealed all the entrances to the tombs except for a small passageway through the neighboring mosque. The tombs were forgotten by almost everyone for centuries until aerial photography revealed them in 1917. The passages were unsealed and voilà, a beautiful and major tourist attraction!  I, for one, was glad to see them.

Each grave is marked by beautiful tile work.

In Islam, statues and paintings are never created. They prefer to show their love and appreciation of Allah (or God) by pain-staking, time-consuming carvings in wood or plaster, decoration with metals such as gold and silver, and geometric patterns set in mosaics. The details just amazed us.

Patterns on the ceiling -- praise Allah for a good zoom!



The Hall of the Twelve Pillars, where the Sultan's body is buried alongside his wives' and sons'.

                    

                    

The Chamber of the Three Niches. A beautiful mihrab, containing 3 prayer niches, which in turn indicate the direction of Mecca (one must always pray facing Mecca, the destination city of the Prophet Mohammad's pilgrimage).  Buried within this mihrab are some of Mansour's favorite alpha-male princes.



Next stop : lunch!  We find a small restaurant overlooking some stork nests and take a break from the sightseeing...




Djeemaa El-Fna, the main square in Marrakesh


Tomorrow, Chris and I are picking up our vehicle and driving towards the desert to meet our guide, Fatah. He will then drive us a few more hours into the Sahara toward our tent camp, where we will enjoy 2 days of Sahara bliss, dromedary rides and home-cooked Berber food. So excited!