Saturday, November 23, 2013

Chefchaouen -- Goodbye Morocco!

Yes, I've hit the motherload. Saved the best for last. Gone out with a bang. Chefchaouen is my last Moroccan city and it was love at first sight for me. The North of Morocco has a strong Spanish influence (just like the South of Spain -- Andalucia -- has a strong Moroccan influence). You can see it in the European-ish style buildings, the multi-toned blue walls, doors and windows, and the cobbled alleys of the town. Again, however, there's no mistaking that you're in Morocco. What an incredibly unique place to spend my last few days!  I loved walking the streets. After a day, many citizens recognized us and greeted us warmly everywhere we went. A teeny tiny part of it might be that this area is the biggest marijuana-growing region of Morocco ; people were so chilled out and peaceful! 

The beautiful Mikaela, showing off an adorably tiny Moroccan sweater (note that she's holding it as though it were a puppet... it was pretty tiny).  Mikaela was coming in fresh from living in Zambia for two years ; she totally rocks the African headgear.


What quickly became my favorite restaurant in Chefchaouen -- La Lampe Magique. I suppose I'm a sucker for Aladdin-themed venues...

Sunset from our rooftop table.

Mikaela being her enigmatic, bubbly self and Chris being his grumpy self.

Chefchaouen looks gorgeous by night.... 









The hotel where I had my 2nd hammam pampering, this time with Mikaela. Check out the posh pool!

Hammam room, with 2 marble slabs on either side, where we got our first couple layers of skin scrubbed off.





On my way out of Morocco, before hitting the border to Spain, I pass through the lovely city of Tetouan. 

Another month --and another country-- has gone by already.... It all flashed by so quickly!  Morocco, like Greece and the Camino before it, brought out a slew of emotions and sensations in me..... The unwanted attention from the merchants and salesman became wearing, although a simple hello (salaam) would change most scowls into warm smiles. The shopkeepers' aggressive tactics, bargaining hard for a fair price, was often very frustrating, but once everything was said and prices agreed upon, they would warmly ask you to sit with them and sip sweet mint tea and talk about life. Some women were reluctant to speak to us, and others would bombard us with questions, wanting to hear all about our adventures. Modern young men would strut about in leather jackets and jeans, texting on their cells, while older men walked around in long, hooded jellabas. Children constantly ran up to us, sometimes to high-five the white tourists, sometimes to ask for money. Garbage was strewn everywhere (Athens was finger-lickin' clean in comparison), street signs are virtually non-existent, but the roads were all in fantastic condition. The taxi drivers had awesome stories and were some of the friendliest folk we met. Hospitality here was warm and could always be counted on, and it didn't take long for me to develop a soft spot for Morocco and the warmth of its people. I was sad to leave what I thought was a fantastic country.

I said goodbye to Chris (who is now backpacking across Cuba) and Mikaela (who is traveling with her mum in Barcelona) and boarded the ferry across the Straight of Gibraltar, which will bring me to the Southernmost province of Spain, Andalucia....  Shukran, Morocco!

Friday, November 22, 2013

El Jadida and Fez

EL JADIDA
Before heading to Fez, I spent some time in El Jadida. This Atlantic Coast city was once ruled by the Portuguese, who built it as one of their settlements along their route to India. Let's not forget that Portugal was once (briefly) the strongest empire in the world. Moroccans, Portuguese and French fought heavily over this city for years. When I was there, it was a busy, happening place, but there wasn't much to do. The ancient Portuguese water cistern was cool. Built in 1514, it was used to hold water and later, to hold arms. It was a shutterbug's delight.




La Cité Portuguaise, the old Portuguese part of El Jadida, with its huge rampart walls.

El Jadida's beach, which I sadly never made it to. I miss the beach!

FEZ
This 1-million+ city has been in existence for 1,200 years and was the heart of Morocco's Independence Movement in the 1950s; the riots and strikes were at their most vociferous here. Throughout many dynasties, Fez was usually the favored home of whoever sat on the country's throne. I found it to be just as bustling and lively as Marrakesh, but without the mass-tourism. Chris and I met a fellow traveler --Mikaela-- at the hostel here, and so the three of us hung around for the next few days. 

Bab Bou Jeloud, the beautiful Blue Gate -- one of many entrances to the medina (old city) of Fez.

Fez's medina, absolutely huge. 150,000 people call the medina home. Note the satellite dishes dotting the ancient rooftops.



The gorgeous hotel Riad Laaroussa, where I had my first hammam experience. Hammams are traditional Moroccan bath houses : few houses had their own shower/bath, so everyone went to the local hammam. Most hammams take dozens of people all at once, but I opted for an individualized treatment, being the ever-so-discreet Canadian. I got down to my skivvies, but no bra (I could have been stark naked if I had wanted to). I laid down in a steam room for about 20 minutes, then the hammam lady came in and doused me with warm water. She lathered me with black soap (an awesome blend of olive and eucalyptus oil) and then scrubbed me down mercilessly with a loofah mitt. I swear about a centimeter-thick layer of dead skin came off. Finally, I was covered in a mix of clay and rose water (a type of body mask), then doused with warm water again. It was so different than anything I'd ever experienced before, and I felt like a million bucks coming out of there!
  

Entrance to one of many mosques in Fez's medina, which I couldn't visit as a woman. Craftsmanship like this never ceases to amaze me. Incidentally, there are only two mosques in the whole country which women are allowed to visit, and I didn't make it to either one.

Camel meat preserved in its own fat. Not once did I spot this national dish on a restaurant menu, anywhere. Truly a local's delight.

Sheep lungs. Yuuum.......

Our restaurant rooftop, surrounded by other rooftop restaurants and hotels. Such a cool way to build ; you never know where you're gonna end up when you set off climbing a flight of stairs...

Chris has a staring show-down with a cocky rooster. The rooster won.

Fez's city walls

I love the mix of the old with the new. This donkey cart feverishly kept up with city vehicles; the cart driver was talking on his cell phone while whipping his donkey at the streetlights.

MEKNÈS
A quick day trip to Meknès is on the table for today. Meknès is the most modern of all 4 imperial cities in Morocco (meaning an ancient capital that has housed the country's royal family) and it's also a bustling University town. There are few sights in the city apart from the Sultan's stables. The main square had the usual dancers, monkey trainers and Berber musicians, but nothing will make me bolt faster than a grinning snake charmer approaching me with a huge cobra in his hands (well, unless he was holding a tarantula). They seem to enjoy freaking out the girls here!

Sultan Moulay Ismail's immense stables and granaries, built to house and feed his 12,000 horses. 



I'm super excited ; tomorrow we're taking a bus to Chefchaouen, a city I've heard so much about! It will be my last stop in Morocco before heading North to Spain.... Thanks for reading me, and don't forget to keep in touch!  xxxx

Monday, November 18, 2013

Essaouira

ESSAOUIRA (pron. essa-WEE-ra)
After two weeks of driving through the arid Atlas Mountains and the Sahara, we head to the Atlantic Coast and the city of Essaouira for some surf and sand. Essaouira is different from other Moroccan cities we've seen so far. It was designed by the same French architect who built Saint-Malo. But inside its walls, it's unmistakably Moroccan : winding labyrinthine streets, colorful street stalls, rotting smell of fish, donkeys being led through narrow alleys.... I'm really loving the whole thing!  

Sunset at Essaouira's port

Essaouira's port is one of the busiest on Africa's Atlantic Coast.  These blue boats are the town's signature vessels.

Essaouira's fortified wall seen in the distance, with seagulls screaming overhead



Taros, a rooftop restaurant that Chris and I went back to a few times. It had a great Mediterranean feel and the food was really tasty. Plus, the magician who worked there managed to remove my wristwatch during a magic trick and I was soooo impressed (and obviously easily distracted).

Café Saha. One of many nice, little corners to sip some sweet mint tea and people-watch in Essaouira.

The teapot mitts are little Berber men wearing fez hats (red caps with black tassels)!

Our awesome riad in Essaouira

This courtyard is where breakfast was served every morning, so delightful...

Back at Essaouira's port. It's as though I just can't get enough of that smell!

Seagulls sure do enjoy them fish guts!  It's hard to convey what the fresh fish market smelled like, and I'm not gonna try.


One of hundreds of dye, spice and herb stores in Essaouira's medina. One of the natural herb baskets here is labeled in French : ''Viagra Express, for climbing the curtains''.  


Cool idea. 


                                     

Betcha didn't know there were so many kinds of olives...

Kitesurfing in Essaouira, easily Morocco's windiest city.  Even though it was hot, I couldn't consider suntanning here, as I would have been mercilessly whipped by sand all day.

After Essaouira, we made our way back to Marrakesh to catch a train connection to our next city, Fez. I really do enjoy Marrakesh and its craziness, and I was happy to go back for one more day. The main square was as lively as expected and the constant brashness of the vendors had become entertaining. 

Ah, Marrakesh market food stalls.... Those glossy, round beige things are sheep brains. There are also sheep heads (back left), a pig snout (front left) and other various animal parts on display and yes --as you can see-- many people were eating at this stall. 

Snails (escargots) cooked in tea. I tried them, I didn't like them. Personally, I prefer them smothered in garlic and cheese. I'm glad I tried them, though. Must try new things!

Marrakesh market, beautifully lit at night.


Et voilà un très bref aperçu de Marrakesh, tout le monde!  
Stay tuned for Fez!  xxxx