EL JADIDA
Before heading to Fez, I spent some time in El Jadida. This Atlantic Coast city was once ruled by the Portuguese, who built it as one of their settlements along their route to India. Let's not forget that Portugal was once (briefly) the strongest empire in the world. Moroccans, Portuguese and French fought heavily over this city for years. When I was there, it was a busy, happening place, but there wasn't much to do. The ancient Portuguese water cistern was cool. Built in 1514, it was used to hold water and later, to hold arms. It was a shutterbug's delight.
La Cité Portuguaise, the old Portuguese part of El Jadida, with its huge rampart walls.
El Jadida's beach, which I sadly never made it to. I miss the beach!
FEZ
This 1-million+ city has been in existence for 1,200 years and was the heart of Morocco's Independence Movement in the 1950s; the riots and strikes were at their most vociferous here. Throughout many dynasties, Fez was usually the favored home of whoever sat on the country's throne. I found it to be just as bustling and lively as Marrakesh, but without the mass-tourism. Chris and I met a fellow traveler --Mikaela-- at the hostel here, and so the three of us hung around for the next few days.
Bab Bou Jeloud, the beautiful Blue Gate -- one of many entrances to the medina (old city) of Fez.
Fez's medina, absolutely huge. 150,000 people call the medina home. Note the satellite dishes dotting the ancient rooftops.
The gorgeous hotel Riad Laaroussa, where I had my first hammam experience. Hammams are traditional Moroccan bath houses : few houses had their own shower/bath, so everyone went to the local hammam. Most hammams take dozens of people all at once, but I opted for an individualized treatment, being the ever-so-discreet Canadian. I got down to my skivvies, but no bra (I could have been stark naked if I had wanted to). I laid down in a steam room for about 20 minutes, then the hammam lady came in and doused me with warm water. She lathered me with black soap (an awesome blend of olive and eucalyptus oil) and then scrubbed me down mercilessly with a loofah mitt. I swear about a centimeter-thick layer of dead skin came off. Finally, I was covered in a mix of clay and rose water (a type of body mask), then doused with warm water again. It was so different than anything I'd ever experienced before, and I felt like a million bucks coming out of there!
Fez's medina, absolutely huge. 150,000 people call the medina home. Note the satellite dishes dotting the ancient rooftops.
The gorgeous hotel Riad Laaroussa, where I had my first hammam experience. Hammams are traditional Moroccan bath houses : few houses had their own shower/bath, so everyone went to the local hammam. Most hammams take dozens of people all at once, but I opted for an individualized treatment, being the ever-so-discreet Canadian. I got down to my skivvies, but no bra (I could have been stark naked if I had wanted to). I laid down in a steam room for about 20 minutes, then the hammam lady came in and doused me with warm water. She lathered me with black soap (an awesome blend of olive and eucalyptus oil) and then scrubbed me down mercilessly with a loofah mitt. I swear about a centimeter-thick layer of dead skin came off. Finally, I was covered in a mix of clay and rose water (a type of body mask), then doused with warm water again. It was so different than anything I'd ever experienced before, and I felt like a million bucks coming out of there!
Entrance to one of many mosques in Fez's medina, which I couldn't visit as a woman. Craftsmanship like this never ceases to amaze me. Incidentally, there are only two mosques in the whole country which women are allowed to visit, and I didn't make it to either one.
Camel meat preserved in its own fat. Not once did I spot this national dish on a restaurant menu, anywhere. Truly a local's delight.
Sheep lungs. Yuuum.......
Our restaurant rooftop, surrounded by other rooftop restaurants and hotels. Such a cool way to build ; you never know where you're gonna end up when you set off climbing a flight of stairs...
Chris has a staring show-down with a cocky rooster. The rooster won.
Fez's city walls
I love the mix of the old with the new. This donkey cart feverishly kept up with city vehicles; the cart driver was talking on his cell phone while whipping his donkey at the streetlights.
MEKNÈS
A quick day trip to Meknès is on the table for today. Meknès is the most modern of all 4 imperial cities in Morocco (meaning an ancient capital that has housed the country's royal family) and it's also a bustling University town. There are few sights in the city apart from the Sultan's stables. The main square had the usual dancers, monkey trainers and Berber musicians, but nothing will make me bolt faster than a grinning snake charmer approaching me with a huge cobra in his hands (well, unless he was holding a tarantula). They seem to enjoy freaking out the girls here!
Sultan Moulay Ismail's immense stables and granaries, built to house and feed his 12,000 horses.
I'm super excited ; tomorrow we're taking a bus to Chefchaouen, a city I've heard so much about! It will be my last stop in Morocco before heading North to Spain.... Thanks for reading me, and don't forget to keep in touch! xxxx
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